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Installing Dome, Maplight LEDS

Land Cruiser 60 Dome install

If y ou are installing your dome LED module in a 60 series Land Cruiser, check out Jim Brantley's great write up at http://realcruiser.com/domelight/, thanks Jim!

Here's another writeup on installing the LED module in the rear of a 60 series Land Cruiser by Jeff Brayton, thanks Jeff!

Here's a picture of another way to modify the rear cargo fixture to work with the same LED dome module that fits directly into the front Dome module, by Andy Rudnik, thanks Andy! Note, Andy emailed me to say he filed the sharp tips of the brass contacts 'round' to better fit into the phillips screw heads.

Land Cruiser 80/450 Dome install.

There is a slot that you insert a flat head screwdriver into - just turn it a bit and the lens will pop off. (Yeah, you can see a Luxeon LED already installed...)

This picture shows the dome LED module installed on a '97 model. NOTE - ensure either the door is closed OR the switch is in the OFF position before inserting the new dome LED, otherwise you run the real risk of shorting out the circuit when trying to plug it in. The board MUST be plugged in the right way around (it is protected, but will not work if plugged in backwards). On the boards you will receive there will be a small '+' on one end of the board, that end that should be plugged in CLOSER to the switch. Also, you can see that the red wire should be closer to the switch end. The LED module will probably not sit perfectly level (due to the way it clips into the tabs) - don't worry, the light output is wide angle and will work perfectly well.

This picture shows the dome assembly on a '94 cruiser. There is a metal heat shield on the '94 model (and '93) and maybe other years too. (An owner of a '91 model reports that his has no heat shield). You need to remove the heat shield (certainly not needed when you have LEDs). Just use a sharp chisel to shear off the plastic tips that keep the heat shield in place. Then simply slide the shield out (trying not to short anything) and throw it away. The LED module will now easily clip in. Set the dome light switch to the OFF POSITION prior to working on the heat shield to prevent a short. Note: the new style driver that is now shipping (7/8" high) can most likely fit without removing the heatshield.

FJ Cruiser Dome install.

The lens is held into the dome fixture with 4 small tabs. Use a small flat head screwdriver to pop the lens off.

With the lens removed, you can then remove the incandescent bulb - hint turn off the dome fixture several minutes before trying to remove the bulb else it will be HOT. Leave the dome fixture off while installing the LED module to prevent shorting something out.

The LED module all lit up - don't look into the light :)

Comparison of front LED and original incandescent in the back.

Subaru WRX Dome install.

The lens is held into the dome fixture with small tabs. Use a small flat head screwdriver to pop the lens off. Again, turn off the dome fixture a few minutes before trying to remove the incandescent to allow it to cool. Leave the fixture off while installing the LED module to prevent the chance of shorting something during installation.

A close up showing the LED module and how it clips in.

The maplight module takes 2 bulbs. You can see how the LED module clips in.

A closer close up showing the LED module clipped in.

The positive end of each LED module faces the front of the vehicle. The negative end faces towards the switch.

Maplight module installation. The two Luxeons are thermally epoxied to an aluminium sheet, the driver board is epoxied to the back of the sheet. Power from the existing bulb connection is made through a bulb that has had the glass smashed off and two wires soldered into the base. This modified 'bulb' then plugs in and provides +12V to the driver board.

The following shows the installation procedure. Note, the entire procedure is totally reversible, other than drilling two holes into the plastic housing, no permanent changes are required.

This first picture shows how to remove the maplight & sunroof control cover. Remove the single mounting screw. Then used a flat screwdriver to lever up one side of the panel and unclip it.

Below is a picture of what the map light looks like when the diffuser assembly has been unscrewed and unclipped. Remove the original bulb (and send it to the Smithsonian...). Just for reference the positive and negative connections are shown. The bulb tip is positive and the bulb body is negative. Also shown are the 5 retaining clips that hold the cover in place.

This picture shows the maplight LED module being put into position. Use a marking pen to outline the two mounting holes. The holes will be drilled into the plastic to allow the LED module to be screwed in place.

This picture shows the backside of the maplight module. Clearly visible is the 'bulb' that plugs in place of the original incandescent bulb.

The next picture shows the holes have been drilled and the modified bulb (to pick up power for the driver board) has been plugged in. There is nothing behind the plastic where the holes are drilled - so don't worry if the drill bit goes in 1/2" or more.

Let there be light! This picture was taken on a sunny day - so the camera was able to catch the LEDs without being totally 'blinded'. All that is left to do is to snap the cover back on and install the Philips screw and the installation is complete.

Door light installation. (I NO LONGER MAKE/SELL the DOOR MODULES). To install the LEDs into the door courtesy lights it is necessary to remove the lens. There are slots that you insert a flat head screwdriver into to pop the lens cover off - though typically the whole light assembly pops out. You can then pop the lens off the assembly - which has a socket built into it that is plugged into the wiring harness.

Since I no longer make the door modules you can find a drop in solution at www.superbrightleds.com. They have a 4 and 6 LED wedge that will fit directly into the light receptacle. Either will work ok.

The following picture shows the modification/adjustment that is required to prepare for the LED module installation. The contacts of the bulb holder need to be squeezed together to ensure a tight fit for the board on the back of the LED module. You can do this without unplugging the light assembly from the vehicle - just make sure you DON'T short the upper clips to the lower clips when you do it - otherwise you will blow a fuse.

The next picture shows the LED module plugged in. Make sure you install the LED module as shown, i.e. the two LEDs should be on the right side of the holder, and the single LED should be close to the Bevel end. All the new style door LED modules have the LEDs standing off the board - this allows you to 'bend or fan' the LEDs out if you want the lighting to be less directional. As shipped the LEDs are all pointing straight forwards.